Business Spotlight: Chang Lai Fishballs & Noodles

Leo, owner of Chang Lai Fishballs & Noodles

Blog by Alice Yang, Photos by Kat St. Martin

You might recognize the delicious aroma of cheung fun or rice noodles and fishballs, from the iconic cart that was once located on the corner of Grand and Bowery …. Now, that well-loved spot has grown into something even bigger—Chang Lai Fishball & Noodles officially opened a storefront back in 2023.

A photo Leo shared with me. He said, “these pictures will forever be in my memory.”

I had the pleasure of sitting down with the warm and charismatic owner, whose bright energy inspired me in more ways than 1. Lai Sheng Zhan- or Leo and his wife Li Qing Wu- or Natalie, officially opened Chang Lai Fishball & Noodles on Bayard street in the summer of 2023- but that is far from where the story starts. 

The story starts over 20 years ago when Leo’s uncle started up the food cart, where he worked for more than two decades. When Leo first came to America, he started as a taxi driver before taking over the cart. He ran and operated the cart for 8 years. Their commitment to serving the adored traditional Cantonese combo –fishballs and noodles – spans over 3 decades. 

I asked Leo about his experience transitioning from the food cart to the brick-and-mortar. Leo expressed to me that because his English wasn’t the best, he experienced many challenges. He shared that they heavily relied on the community of Chinatown and word of mouth to regain his regular customers – and gained many new ones along the way. Leo said that it was hard to keep up with the new pace of the restaurant and it took a period of adjustment to gain control of the new flow they had to adapt to. 

Leo showing off his hard- earned awards! 

The walls of his store are decorated with pictures of him and his customers, each capturing a special memory. As he showed me the photos, he described every person with amazing detail. Pointing to one, he said, “This girl is from Italy. She came to New York to visit and wanted to eat at my restaurant.” With pride beaming through his words he showed me another photo featuring a group of college students, and he not only remembered their names but also the school they attended and even their individual orders. It was really heartwarming to witness how much Leo values his customers and the meaningful connections he builds with everyone who walks through his doors. 

 I asked Leo about his proudest moment as a business owner, and he shared that his greatest joy comes from creating food that people love. He finds happiness when customers return for more and share their feedback, knowing that his cooking brings them satisfaction. When answering my question of how he gets over obstacles as a small business owner he said “keep going no matter what and do not let anything get in your way. Money is hard to make and I am focused on providing good food and slowly saving up money for the future.” Leo voiced to me that his family gives him the most motivation, he has 2 sons- one in college and one in high school. 

When showing me the menu, Leo explained to me that he takes extra pride in one particular menu item because it is known to be difficult to prepare –“Beef tripe spleen and radish.” Give it a try next time you visit Leo! Other menu favorites include their iconic C1 Hong Kong style milk tea, which he customizes each tea to your preferred sweetness level (item C1), curry fishballs and rice noodles (A1), and the original oyster sauce fishball and rice noodles (A2).

If you are looking for traditional Cantonese style street food, Chang Lai Fishball and Noodles is just the spot for you! From the moment you walk through our doors, you'll be welcomed with warmth, exceptional hospitality, and Leo’s big beaming smile! Make sure to check out Leo’s recommended favorites!

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