Then & Now: Fong On Over the Years
Paul Eng (third from the right), owner of Fong On, and his family
Fong On
81 Division Street
Perhaps there’s no other business in Chinatown that encapsulates “Legacy to Longevity” more than Fong On does. As the oldest family-run tofu shop in NYC, the shop was first started in 1933 in the basement of 43 Mott St by Paul Eng’s grandfather. In 1968, Fong On moved to 46 Mott St and changed its name to Fong Inn Too in 1986 when Paul’s brothers took over the business.
Fong On at the original 43 Mott Street basement location, est. 1933
Fong Inn Too became a Chinatown staple where loyal customers and local businesses bought fresh tofu, rice cake, and noodle products. But as more Chinese immigrants moved out of Manhattan Chinatown, demand and sales declined. Fong Inn Too, then still run by Paul’s brothers, closed its doors in 2017.
But Paul, who had pursued careers in music and photography, was back in the US and looking for ways to support his new family. In 2019, he reopened Fong On at the original tofu factory location at 81 Division St in a modernized storefront with modern equipment. He even had to recreate old recipes that were never formally recorded.
Selling fresh, ready-to-eat soft tofu pudding, rice cakes, and beverages instead of wholesale products, the shop is attracting younger and non-Chinese customers. Chinatown businesses like Fong On have had to adapt over the decades to meet the future and preserve its history. But Paul and the shop have stayed true to Fong On’s roots — building a foundation for longevity in the long run.
What is an element of the Chinatown legacy/spirit you hope we never lose?
Perseverance through adapting to change. Being able to change to meet the future.
How does the heritage of your business influence your work today?
My grandfather and father did this business to feed their families because it was a good business. Not just good to provide income, but also good to build character, good because it’s wholesome food, good because it’s family centered.
Fong On moved to 46 Mott Street in 1968 and was renamed Fong Inn Too in 1986. The photos above were taken at Fong Inn Too in the early 2000s. Fong Inn Too shut its doors in 2017. But Paul Eng opened Fong On at its current location at 81 Division Street (the site of Fong Inn Too’s tofu factory) in 2019. Below are photos of the revamped Fong On storefront.
Why is it important to you to continue serving the Chinatown community? Where do you see your business in 10 years?
I think it’s important to serve the Chinatown community as a means to preserve it. Making a modern business out of an old business is key to longevity of not only the business but the community.
I hope my business in 10 years will help grow the boundaries of “Chinatown” again and to go beyond it.
What gives you hope for the future of Chinatown?
Young entrepreneurs who have started to value themselves as equals to the “outside world”. Building new businesses with an emphasis on quality and openness.
If you’d like to support Fong On, stop by at 81 Division Street for fresh tofu pudding and more! Learn more about Fong On’s history by watching the New York Times Cooking’s video of Paul.
Chinatown establishments like Fong On are what makes the spirit of our neighborhood. Please consider making a donation to our small business relief fund, The Longevity Fund, or help us spread the word of what’s at stake. Together, we can preserve Chinatown businesses and help ensure Chinatown will always be open for business.
