Business Supporting Business: 12Pell + Mee Sum Cafe
Introducing a new 3-part mini stories series, “Business Supporting Business” where we speak with local Chinatown business owners about their favorite Chinatown spots. Through our work, we learned of so many incredible stories from small business owners in the neighborhood where a common theme across the board illustrated the community’s shared love, support and camaraderie for each other. Many of Chinatown’s small business owners are also patrons of the neighborhood, whether it be a place where they grab a bite to eat mid-shift or for family dinner on special occasions.
Stay tuned for more stories! Special thanks to Steven Yen Photography for these photos.
12Pell Supporting Mee Sum Cafe
Karho is the owner of local barbershop, retail and event space, 12Pell. This is a picture of Karho and his dad outside Mee Sum (Karho, his dad, and man in yellow is the owner). His dad goes to Mee Sum almost every morning to eat or talk to the owner. They are very friendly with each other. Karho said that when he was a kid, he attended cram school (like Kumon) across from Mee Sum so he’s been going there since he was a child. It’s one of the oldest restaurants in Chinatown. His dad goes there almost every day. There’s so much history and the place hasn’t changed - it still looks like the typical 1950-60’s diner. When Karho would go there, they would be really nice - they are like family. Here is our conversation with Karho of 12Pell:
What do you love most about Mee Sum?
“Mee Sum is one of the oldest restaurants in Chinatown. To this day, it still carries that same level of authenticity you won't find anywhere else, that OG Chinatown vibe. I'm talking diner swivel stools, village style signature pan fried fish, a cash register that looks like it was born before I was. The real gravy is that it is the only spot that STEAMS the rice in tin boxes. There are no Yelp reviews or Vice articles, and you def wont find your Instagram foodie hunched over the table snapping pictures, but you will find the OGs sipping on the Hennessy VSop out of their black plastic bags. If you are lucky enough to discover this place you will know it is a gem. The food is nostalgic - the salted chicken is salty, and I am talking about like how grandmother would make it, so it goes well with a mouthful of rice- not to be eaten alone. I love Mee Sum because it is the true definition of community establishment. Through my 20-something years going here, they haven’t changed a thing, consistently serving the neighborhood people and providing a place of community to the elders of chinatown. Mee Sum gives us a deep sense of connection to our elder generation. Take a seat at one of the stools at the counter and watch as the staff speaks your order into a mic that echos back in the kitchen. Boy, it don’t get more authentic than that.”
What is the significance of Mee Sum to you/your family?
“My grandmother used to take me to Mee Sum after Pell Street summer camp. My pops is a regular there and he’s even earned the name "the king." The story goes that he once called a kitchen staff a king and they flipped it back on him and the rest is history. As a result I also earned the title as the "king’s son." But should give you the idea, it's all neighborhood love at Mee Sum. So if you do get a chance to visit this spot, just know- there is way more to it than the food. It’s the people.”
1st: Karho and his father at Mee Sum Cafe. 2nd: Karho and his father at 12Pell
What should people order when they eat at the restaurant?
“‘Sam Bo Fan’ (three treasure rice), ‘Ham Yui Yook Bang fan’ (salty fish pork patty) and ‘ham gui fan’ (salted chicken over rice) are my top 3 go to dishes. Pro-tip is if you get the Ham Yui Yook Bang fan ask for the patty and the rice to be in separate containers- you get more of the natural juices from the steamed patty that you can pour over the rice for that nice rich salty flavor. As my grandma and pops would say "Ham ham hurng hurng," salty and aromatic- but don’t goof. That stuff is real traditional, and not everyone can handle preserved salted fish.”
